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Terminology

Terminology

JEANS: A style of pants manufactured by diagonal-weave cotton fabric and usually dyed with indigo. The term jeans originally derives from “bleu de Genes,” a French phrase used in the nineteenth century to refer to the pants worn by Genoese sailors . The official birth date of the pants is considered to be May 20, 1873, when Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis were granted the US patent for their riveted pants.

 

RAW DENIM:  Our Raw denim, or unwashed denim, is denim that has not undergone any of the usual washing and distressing processes. It’s dipped in our dye and not messed with after, giving our jeans the perfect deep indigo look. Raw denim allows our wearer to personalize the pants for his unique shape, with creases and fade marks forming to your movements.

 

SELVEDGE DENIM: Selvedge stands for "Self Edge,” meaning the outseam is tightly bound, giving it a cleaner, more unique look. It’s made on shuttle looms from the 1940's, Rather than the thrifty modern projectile loom, our denim is made on shuttle looms, allowing for tighter weave and more durable fabric. Our weaving process creates a  depth and dimension in the denim that can't be achieved elsewhere.

 

JAPANESE (SELVEDGE) DENIM: Japanese denim is considered by many to be the highest quality of denim available. During the economic crisis of the early 1990s, many small Japanese denim artisans began reviving vintage methods such as shuttle looms, selvage denim, and ring-spun yarn to produce specialized denim which we use in our brand today.

 

SANFORIZED DENIM: Sanforization is the process of pre-shrinking a fabric to a limit the residual or further shrinkage of the fabric to less than 1%. This sanforization process involves the stretching of the fabric before it is washed, which helps to prevent shrinkage. All our denim is sanforized or preshrunk.

 

RIGHT-HAND TWILL: Right hand twill is the traditional weave used for jeans and was the type of fabric that Levi Strauss first bought for his pants. It is usually woven with S-twist yarn with a diagonal bias running from the upper right to the lower left, like the spine of a Z.

 

ROPE DYEING: Believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn, the threads of denim yarn are initially twisted into a rope, then undergo a repetitive sequence of dipping and oxidization.  The more frequent the dipping and oxidizing, the stronger the indigo shade.

 

CHAIN STITCHING: Chain stitching is the traditional stitch used to hem jeans, and creates a vivid roping effect. It uses one continuous thread that loops back on itself. Using a chain stitch pulls slightly on the denim and causes the traditional rippling on the hem. Chain stitching requires a special sewing machine, such as a “Union Special” Sewing Machine.

 

HEMMING: The process of adjusting cloth by folding up a cut edge, folding again and sewing it down. 

 

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